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The perfume in which white flowers harmonize with musky base notes.
That died down fairly quickly leaving the top note of magnolia, lots and lots of magnolia with lots and lots of jasmine.
Very intense, very heavy, harsh, rough, chemical, bitter.
@Celticelle thank you for reviewing the vintage because that is the one I was interested in. Since Fragrantica refuses to add a vintage Rumeur page for some reason, I'm forced to put this on the new version page.
The scent is not bad, but it is very safe and boring. I bought this blind and I was hoping for more lilly of the valley, orange blossom and musk. I would describe this scent as 60% magnolia, 20% jasmine 10% plum and 10% rose. But even they are not elderly, just depends who wears them..
It also lacks the bitterness of the other famous fruity chypre, Mitsouko. The opening is just so bad that it doesn't really make sense for me to wear this at all. I'm afraid I had to wash this one off which I rarely do with new perfumes, all I could smell was nail polish remover and it made me feel quite sickly :( when I came back downstairs from washing it off I could still smell it in my living room, sorry to say those who love it but not for me at all. Then I took the risk, following the advice of some lovely Fragranticans, and I am extremely glad that I did! Much more refined and softer than Lovely, less harsh and more well rounded, it only has in common the general idea of flowers resting on a bed of musk and a whisper of patchouli.
So, when Narciso Rodriguez does this it's sexy but when Lanvin does it's "elderly". It is like NR for Her but with a citrus/magnolia kick. It's a bit like SJP's Lovely but the lavendar just puts that scent in a whole other stratosphere. Can understand the comparison to Lovely and Narcisso but it's softer and more subtle! But I find Lovely more powdery and schreechy, with a dirtier kind of musk.
It's a soft suede/leather with a lot of animalic notes, mainly from the use of costus.
It's actually considered a fruity chypre with peach and plum and, of course, lots of oak moss.